Кораци кроз време: сандала

За већину античких Римљана обућа је била нешто практично. Волели су добру обућу, али су сматрали  да је за њен изглед прекомерно трошење крајње бесмислено.

Међутим, она обућа која је ношена по метрополама римског света и у самом “вечном граду”, представљала је галерију чудесних креација. Гламурозних сандала за оба пола. Обуј глам сандале, и појави се!

 

Сама идеја да обућа прелази границу увредљивог луксуза, датира бар од времена старог Рима. Као пример, Тутанкамон је имао по неку златну сандалу, али једноставног дизајна, као што су биле и друге. Бити бос није било неуобичајено, нарочито у свом дому. У Египту су сандале имале превасходно ритуалну улогу и означавале суверенитет фараона. Сам Тутанкамон сахрањен је са преко 42 пара. Што и није неки број, ако се упореди један римски цар.


Златне сандале фараона Тутанкамона


Задивљујуће су сандале извајане на мермерним скулптурама разних римских божанстава, полубожанстава, царева, царица и митолошких хероја. Плени и задовољава нашу радозналост и естетски доживљај. 

Упознајте њено величанство – римску сандалу! Сандалу за сва времена.

По грчко-римским правилима, ко обувен ступа на неко тло, он га осваја, има власт. Пригодно за сандале једне империје које су “освојиле” велики део тада познатог света.

 

Оне су доминирале. По улицама градова, по старим римским друмовима, на војним походима и путовањима широм Средоземља. Од Рима до данашње Грчке, Србије (Горња Мезија), Шпаније, Француске, Сирије, Египта…



Најпознатије су калиге (лат. caliga, ae војничка чизма) које су носили легионари и које подсећају на модерне сандале. Дизајниране као отворена обућа којом jе слободнo циркулисао ваздух, са три слоја коже и блокејама на ђоновима.

Акценaт је био на издржљивости и удобности, за дуге усиљене маршеве јер остављају ноге без пликова. Ношене су на босу ногу, сем у Германији или Британији где су услед хладноће ношене на вунене чарапе.
Ово ме је, морам признати, подсетило на Немце и уопште, северњаке који и данас увек носе чарапе (сокне) са сандалама. Могуће, као неки атавизам. Сада је то тренди у модном свету.

Жене су носиле исту обућу, само финију, од мекше коже и углавном белу сандалу. Пете нису биле високе, римски инжењеринг штикле није патентирао, али ђон од плуте или дрвета успевао је да створи илузију висине.

Богати су носили квалитетну обућу од елеганције и стила и то у више боја. Црвене су носили сенатори, а одлика патрицијске (племићке) обуће је да су имале при врху сребрни или златни полумесец.

 

Римски цареви су предњачили у луксузу. Гај Јулије Цезар Германик ака Калигула (caliga, чизмица, дем.) имао је папуче прошивене бисерима и својим гостима их је уносио у лице да би их добро видели и да би им се дивили. Надимак је добио по црвеним чизмама које је као дете носио у војном логору свог оца Германика, а када је порастао и постао цезар носио их је опточене драгим камењем.

Или цар Елагабал из III века који је био познат по гозгама на којима је засипао госте мирисним латицама ружа од којих би се многи угушили. Он, крајње екстравагантно, није обувао два пута исту обућу.




Обућари, римске занатлије радили су вредно и напорно. Дизајн је експресиван и изражавао је личност наручиоца. Као естетски, али и еротизовани објект сандала је била врло битна. Носиле су се разне врсте кожне обуће (калце, рупичасте карбатине са чипком, чизма са крзном која је прекривала чланак или до колена), у односу на статус, жеље, начин израде, квалитет… изузев робова који су углавном били боси или су носили најјефтинију обућу.

Обућа је одражавала друштвени и културни контекст наручиоца. Његов идентитет. Прављене су посебно за људе различитих занимања: за интелектуалце, глумце (у Грчкој су носили црне са високим платформама, вероватно исто и у Риму), ловце, сељаке… Углавном су се носиле сандале због топле климе, и оне су синоним за античку обућу. Комфорне и easy-going. Око VII века изашле су из употребе (јер је показивање прстију постало непристојно). Средњи век не познаје сандале.

 

И данас је у свету италијанска сандала појам за стил и удобност. Од лат. sandalia, solea која је имала једноставну траку између прстију, добила је име.

У античком свету сандале су имале симболичку улогу. Додељиване су као награда на играма, изувале када се улази у кућу песника… Стопало је било симбол снаге и душе. Упориште става и држања.



 

А ја, ја бих бих најрадије носила Персејеве (Хермесове/Меркурове). За мене су оне  “sandals to die for”! Митске и крилате! Бар један ђир...

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