Nova era logotipa

Nova era logotipa: kako i zašto su modni brendovi raskinuli s prošlošću


U poslednjih par godina srećemo se sa trendom redizajna logotipa poznatih modnih brendova, od luksuznih do mainstream.

Najčešći komentar stručne kritike i ljudi na društvenim mrežama je da sad svi liče jedni na druge. I liče, kad ih sve poređamo na papir. Da li je to zato što svi logotipi pripadaju istoj industriji ili je ta sličnost u ovom trenutku nevažna? Zato će mi se u razgovoru u vezi sa ovom temom pridružiti koleginica Brankica Ilić, art direktorka u našoj agenciji, koja će dati osvrt iz ugla svoje profesije, a i ličnih afiniteta.  

Jelena: Primetila sam da su promene različite, u grafičkom smislu. Kod nekih logotipa je u pitanju samo manja intervencija, a kod nekih je redizajn radikalno izvršen. Kako ti vidiš razloge koji stoje iza toga i pravac u kojem su promene otišle?

Brankica: Osveženje vizuelnog identiteta je potreba svakog brenda koji želi da ostane savremen i u igri na tržištu sa konkurencijom. I redizajn logotipa uglavnom podrazumeva korak napred.

Potrošači se vezuju za brend i nekada ih i najmanja promena uznemiri, ali često nisu svesni sa kojom problematikom se brend suočava, i da mora da se menja da bi živeo.

Luksuzni modni brendovi, o kojima se najviše pričalo u zadnje vreme, poput Celine, Calvin Klein, Burberry, Balenciaga, Saint Laurent odlučuju se za jednostavan sans serif dizajn. I da, mnogi su se zapitali da li to sada brendovi liče jedan na drugi. Ali treba sagledati i koje su prednosti jedne takve promene, a to je pre svega estetika sans serif fontova koja je čistija i čitljivija, te se novi logotip ponaša mnogo bolje online. I pruža daleko veće mogućnosti u brendingu.

Jelena: Kako će se promena odraziti na apetit konzervativnih potrošača s obzirom na to da su u pitanju heritage brendovi? I ako su logotipi sada uniformisani, da tako kažem, da li gube na identitetu?

Brankica: Da, ali nije li to negde i odraz opšte globalizacije, vremena u kome živimo. Brendovi brišu razlike, a vreme će pokazati gde to vodi njihov odnos sa potrošačima. Gledano s umetničke strane, ta homogenost je opasna po kreativnost, ali evidentno je da je ovo ulazak u jednu novu eru.

Novi Burberry logo, koji se nije mnogo menjao od njegovog nastanka pre 100 godina je sada moderan, osnažen, ali bez starog konjanika, i bez tradicionalne engleske tipografije. No ipak, negde se ne želi skroz pobeći od nasleđa, što potvrđuje i ispis London England ispod logotipa. Delo je čuvenog dizajnera Pitera Sevila (Peter Saville), koji je pre par godina promenio identitet i za Calvin Klein. Monogram Thomas Burberry, čiji je autor Rikardo Tiši (Riccardo Tisci), novi modni dizajner kuće Burberry, inspirisan je svilenim košuljama 80-ih i 90-ih, gde je opet tradicija upakovana na nov, moderan način.

Pre 7 godina, Hedi Sliman (Hedi Slimane), skraćuje Yves Saint Laurent u Saint Laurent, ispisan jednostavnim sans serif fontom, sa potpisom Paris, a nedavno, isti čovek menja Celine zbog bolje proporcije, vraćajući se u period 60-ih kad akcenat na „e“ nije korišćen. Definitivno se tradicija sada komunicira na drugačiji način.

Jelena: Imamo li slične primere promene logotipa u drugim kategorijama?

Brankica: Isti trend ispratili su proteklih godina i Google, Uber, Visa, Mastercard, Airbnb, Instagram, Netflix, Starbucks i mnogi drugi.

Pojednostavljivanje, kako u tipografiji, tako i u simbolima koji čine vizuelni identitet, javlja se kao potreba da jedan brend prodiše kroz nove komunikacione kanale.

Jelena: Slučaj Zara. Moj prvi utisak je bio – uh, ne znam šta da mislim. Kad sam videla logotip u primeni imala sam potpuno drugačiji utisak. Logotip, bez obzira na to što su ga neki pročitali kao Zaba, logično je evoluirao i lepo radi. Kakvo je tvoje mišljenje? 

Brankica: Iako nedopustivo igranje sa kerningom u tipografiji, kao i vizuelno podsećanje na Harper’s Bazaar, meni se dopao na prvi pogled. :) Ovde je slučaj drugačiji, iz jednostavnog ispisa sa razmaknutim slovima, slova prelaze u serifna sa velikim razlikama u debljini linija, i preklapaju se. Ali videćemo koliko će ova promena raditi na dugoročnom nivou. Za sad deluje sveže, a možda je i najava za prelazak na teritoriju luksuznijih brendova (rezultat je rada agencije Baron & Baron, čiji je osnivač Fabien Baron već ostavio svoj pečat u luksuznim brendovima poput Dior-a).

Jelena: Šta se dešava sa domaćim brendovima, mislim na one koji postoje dugi niz godina. Modna kuća Mona pokušava da odabirom influensera i kolekcijama podmladi ciljnu grupu, dok logotip sve vreme miruje. Ima li drugačijih primera gde brend ide u korak s vremenom i pokazuje zrelost da se transformiše?

Brankica: Po meni, te promene moraju da idu u kompletu da bi imale pun efekat, znači potrebno je uskladiti i izgled logotipa. Mi smo malo tržište, ali ipak, pitanje je vremena kada će se kod naših brendova javiti potreba za tom promenom ili tačnije, šta će ih naterati da to urade. Ne mislim samo na modnu industriju, već uopšte. To svakako nosi sa sobom i dodatna ulaganja, kao i određene rizike. Ali sigurno rešenje podrazumeva: napraviti pravi profesionalni izbor, uz poverenje i ugledanje na uzore. Kada vidite da se drugi oko vas menjaju, morate se zapitati gde ste vi i šta želite, ili ne želite. Drugim rečima, gde se vidite u budućnosti.

Pokušavam da se setim nekog primera u fashion industriji kod nas. Recimo, Ivko Woman brend, (nekada Trikotaža Ivković). Mislim da oni to rade veoma dobro.

 

Autorke teksta: Jelena Simić i Brankica Ilić, Ovation BBDO

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